Interview with Dmitry Vdovin

Art director of the French beauty salon Jean Louis David
Magazine |
Good afternoon, Dmitry! Since you are an art manager and an expert in creating styles, I would love to know your opinion on the latest trends of spring-summer haircuts and hair care products. 
 
Tell me, what is the main difference between affordable mass-market shampoos and expensive brands? 
 
            Shampoo is what prepares hair for the following product, and there are often discussions among stylists, why there is such a variety of shampoos if their function is simple enough. Initially, shampoos have an increased Ph (alkaline environment) to slightly open the cuticles and flush out all the accumulated dirt from busy megalopolis, and constant styling. The most striking difference between affordable shampoos and expensive ones is the ingredients. However, even in this market segment, some worthy manufacturers do create recommendable, inexpensive shampoos with a high-quality composition. Although, as a rule, silicone will be added to all these shampoos to smooth the hair structure. For example, shampoos 2 in 1, 3 in 1 remain a mystery to me: after all, the conditioner has a low Ph - closer to an acidic environment (to seal the cuticles) when a higher Ph shampoo creates an alkaline environment. It turns out that when they interact, they neutralize each other, and as a result, the shampoo does not sufficiently cleanse, and the conditioner cannot cope with its task. Therefore, the clean-head effect does not last for long. 
            Expensive brands do not strive to simplify the process. Shampoo cleans the hair properly, then other products like conditioner, balm, milk, or mask are responsible for proper nutrition. The conditioner makes it easier to comb your hair. The balm has some nourishing base that penetrates the hair, smoothes the cuticle, and closes it, allowing the care to get partially inside. Milk and mask are almost the same things, only that the mask gives richer and deeper nourishment, where the density of the ingredients is much higher. Therefore, while consulting clients, it is highly important to choose a suitable product that properly nourishes their hair and does not overweight it. 
 
Which shampoo do you prefer, sulfate or sulfate-free? 
 
            In my opinion, the sulfate-free shampoo will not wash your head. Any shampoo should have an abundance of foam that lifts the dirt off the scalp, otherwise, it will not rinse it out. If there were no chemicals that preserve the composition of the shampoo, then it would have to be changed every week, if not, it would deteriorate due to the natural formula. Natural biocosmetics are most likely just fashion trends. Honestly, I am not a supporter of such decisions and do not choose such products.
Art director of the French beauty salon Jean Louis David
How do you feel about oils as supplemental nourishment for your hair? How can oils be used? 
 
            I love the way oils work on hair and use them as a care product when I work with clients. The only thing is that marketers and various brands say that oils need to be applied to dry hair, which I contradict. The fraction of an oil molecule is ten times smaller than a water molecule, hence, it is lighter and rises outward. When we apply oil to a dry hair surface, it is instantly absorbed and pushes out all moisture, drying out the hair. If you apply oil to damp hair, it envelops it, preventing it from "drinking" from the external environment, which is preferable for styling. The oil does not allow the hair to dry out, clogging the water inside the rod where the required amount of water always remains in the hair. I have tried Valdoré Recovering Keratin Oil on wet, damp hair and I loved the result. Alternatively, you can mix it with Valdoré Recovering Conditioner before application to nourish your hair.
 
What do you think of Valdoré products? 
 
            Valdoré Revitalizing Shampoo is very pleasant in texture: it has a soft, rich lather that cleanses the hair and creates a feeling of freshness. The prevalence of natural ingredients is impressive, which undoubtedly affects the health of the hair. Plus, it suits all hair types from curly to perfectly straight. The shampoo has excellent cleansing properties, gently washing the hair till it squeaks, without drying out the scalp. Not every shampoo is capable of this. I have tested Valdoré Revitalizing Shampoo, sometimes using it four times a day and I did not get a feeling of tightness. Valdoré care has an amazing scent - not trivial, but very sophisticated. 
            Valdoré Recovering Conditioner delights by not overloading the hair. I have been testing it for a long time on different hair types and have made sure it gave all hair the density it needed. If your hair is naturally thin, it will feel fuller after using Valdoré Recovering Conditioner. In addition, this product has a cumulative effect: with regular use, the hair is saturated and its volume is increased. Valdoré Conditioner is ideal for your hair as long as it is in good condition and has not been overloaded with chemicals. If the hair is already very sore and depleted so much that it is very susceptible, then, unfortunately, you cannot do with one complex of shampoo and conditioner. Undoubtedly, you will need to add other care products, possibly under the supervision of a trichologist.
Art director of the French beauty salon Jean Louis David
You mentioned silicones in affordable shampoos, but do expensive product makers use silicones? 
 
            Silicones can be different: cheap and expensive. Let's have a look at what is going on without silicone: the sebaceous glands are wide enough and have an acidic environment. The sweat glands have tiny pores and create an alkaline environment. Thus, they neutralize each other when they work together. For example, when a person is sweating, the head becomes greasy, and after a while, the freshness returns. Cheap silicones are dangerous because, getting on the scalp, they clog the sebaceous glands as well as the sweat glands. As a result, neutralization is disturbed, and the head becomes very oily. 
            High-tech expensive silicones differ in that the fraction of the molecule is tiny. Therefore, getting on the scalp, these silicones do not clog the pores, and then they are also easily washed out with shampoo. And those silicones work great with hair. Once on the hair, they envelop its structure, making it less susceptible to chemical and physically aggressive influences. They give a good shine and seal the cuticle as well. Thanks to silicone, the hair looks dashing. 
 
What recommendations for fashionable hairstyles this season could you give? 
 
            We are now coming out of a depression after the pandemic, from a state of isolation and restrictions. As an international haute-couture brand in the hairdressing world, we create new collections every year. The last we release turns out to be sunny, positive, with gorgeous well-groomed hairstyles and gloss. The previous one, filmed in Manhattan, was sustained in a depressive mood, against the backdrop of destroyed buildings and graffiti-covered garages. I believe that people have seen enough of their overgrown roots, chaos, disorder, shapeless hairstyles during the lockdown, and now they need perfect shapes, lines, as everybody wants to feel the joy of life. 
            Ombre and Sombre hairstyles have returned to fashion, but their image is changing, moving away from what has become habitual over the past decade. From now on, this coloring is done with darker roots, highlighted strands from the inside, and more active scattered bangs. We decided not to spoil the hair casualness with a total blond and leave the natural color, highlighting it with light strands. 
            Short haircuts have also come into fashion again, for example, pixies, which have an impressive variety: with and without bangs. But with such a short haircut, it is significant to choose the right color. Neutral shades on short haircuts have never looked glamorous and never will. 
 
What is deprecated? 
 
            For me, total blondes are outdated, from roots to ends of blonde hair. In my opinion, this is not aesthetically pleasing, it has no benefit to the hair, and with constant bleaching, the hair turns into a washcloth. 
But, if a person has his unique image and the hairstyle completes it, if in this image he feels harmonious and comfortable, then it looks great.
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